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San
Diego Restaurant Reviews
Star of India
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a
Retreat for Mind and Body
By Amy Covington
Like a perfectly paired cheese and wine, Indian
spices work in tandem to bring harmony to your
taste buds. Good Indian chefs are skilled choreographers,
synchronizing complimentary flavors, allowing
the star of the show‹the main ingredient
to shine.
The culinary artisans at the Star
of India in Del Mar have mastered this delicate
dance, creating uniquely flavorful dishes that
will make you a regular customer.
The Star of India menu features
the best of Indian cuisine, which has gained
in popularity. Even though Indian restaurants
have crept in the San Diegan subconscious, it
has remained relatively ambiguous to most novice
diners. A millennia old culture, Indian cuisine
has inevitably adopted dietary traditions and
cooking methods from foreign influences.
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Long a vegetarian society, they evolved to incorporate
some meat into their diet, although Indian cooks
respect Muslim and Hindi beliefs, which prohibit
beef and pork consumption. You will find marinated
and spicy lamb dishes, as well as memorable
chicken and seafood.
Muslims from Asia introduced some
of the most notable dishes. They brought leavened
bread and the tandoor cooking method. Indian
rotis were merged with leavened breads to make
Tandoori naans, a well known appetizer or entrée
accompaniment. Kebabs and pilafs made their
Indian debut and the notion of ending dinner
with a dessert gained popularity via Muslim
influence.
When thinking of Indian food, many
people automatically think of curry, kebabs,
and tandoori chicken.
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Granted, many of the food names
are difficult to pronounce for most native Westerners,
so sticking by what they know is a safe bet,
but mere intimidation should not prevent anyone
from trying something new on the menu now and
then. At Star of India, the knowledgeable and
patient staff help diners make educated dinner
selections.
An important thing to know about
Indian cuisine is the "curry powder"
found in the grocery store aisle is actually
a combination of spices, and that in reality
there are dozens of curry styles and spice combinations.
In India, curry is an English word that means
gravy. Traditionally, many curries contain chile
pepper, cloves, coriander, cinnamon, cardamom,
cumin, ginger turmeric and nutmeg, among other
spices.
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Despite the
numerous spices involved in Indian cooking,
the finished product arrives perfectly
balanced. At Star of India, the menu boasts
plentiful, harmonious options, whether
you choose chicken, lamb, seafood or a
vegetarian dish. Some options include
the chicken tikka masala, which according
to the owner (Jack, who frequently visits
the restaurant, making sure his patrons
get the best dining experience), is the
most frequently ordered item.
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With
good reason this dish is a favorite,
tender boneless chicken breast roasted
in a clay oven and cooked with a
blend of creamy tomato curry and
spices will leave you craving more.
Other options include lamb Rogan
Josh, boneless lamb cooked with
spicy curry sauce with onions, garlic,
ginger, tomatoes, and aromatic spices;
and Bengan Bhartha, eggplant roasted
in a clay oven with peas, onions,
garlic, ginger, and tomatoes and
served with or without cream.
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Once you¹ve tried a few new
dishes, the "tried-and-true"
are available as a fall-back choice
they are, after all, tried-and-true
for a reason. Star of India makes
a wide selection of kebabs, including
chicken tikka, seekh (minced lamb
mixed with exotic spices and herbs);
booti (boneless lamb cubes); and
fish. If you can't make up your
mind, try the mixed Tandoori grill,
which includes a taste of all their
kebab choices.
Now,
this is where it can get a little
overwhelming. Remember when I said
there are dozens of curries? Star
of India offers six different meat
curry options, including korma (vegetables,
cream, cashews, nuts, raisins and
spices); coconut delight (a blend
of coconut, cream, curry and exotic
spices); Saag (fresh spinach, broccoli,
green onions, garlic, ginger, tomatoes
and spices); Jalfrazie (sautéed
vegetables, onions, garlic, ginger,
fresh tomato sauce and curry); Masala
(spicy curry of onions, garlic ginger,
tomatoes and spices); Vindaloo (spicy
tangy tomato and curry sauce cooked
with fresh herbs and cubed potatoes),
plus several vegetarian curries
from which to choose.
An admitted
beginner when I entered Star of
India, I was markedly more knowledgeable
upon the completion of my surprisingly
delicate meal. Star of India's owner,
Jack, so graciously guided my meal
courses, first recommending the
veggie samosa, two lightly fried
pastries (think phyllo), stuffed
with peas, potatoes and spices.
What
I found surprising about my dining
experience was that even after eating
a good portion of food with a rich
sauce containing lots of spices,
I walked away feeling content, instead
of floating away, regretful of my
overindulgence. This was not by
luck, but by design. Many Indian
spices have curative properties
that help prevent gastrointestinal
upsets and aid digestion. From the
soothing, tranquil atmosphere flavored
by exotic music to the succulent
entrees, dining at Star of India
truly is a harmonious experience
for mind and body.
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Photos
by John Leonffu
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