By Amy Covington

Catch the Wave

The art of sushi preparation has come a long way since the days of narezushi, when raw fish were pressed between layers of salt and fermented for weeks or years, under the weight of a heavy stone. We have Yohei of Edo, Japan (modern day Tokyo) to thank for today’s fanciful, and much more appetizing, renditions of the ancient dish.

Looking for a way to speed up the process, which over the past few centuries was shortened through the use of rice vinegar, but still took a lot of time and retained the strong odor of decayed fish, Yohei opened up a portable stall serving the freshest fish with vinagered rice.

We know his invention as Sashimi. Nanami Koshiba, sushi chef at Nami in Hillcrest, continues the tradition, artfully crafting masterpieces of seafood and fresh fish. Nanami’s skill extends beyond the traditional nigiri sushi and rolls.

He will ask you what you like, and upon request, will present a platter of your favorite marine life that even you could not have imagined.Don’t let the serene atmosphere at Nami fool you, their food packs a punch. Thinking I’d ordered an innocent salad, I was pleasantly surprised with the pieces of sashimi and fried calamari tossed with Spring mixed greens drizzled with spicy dressing.

My first course was just a palette teaser, making my taste buds stand at attention in anticipation of what was to follow. Next on the menu was a steaming plate of buckwheat noodles and Thai basil, on top of which rested a banana leaf bundle containing tender chunks of baked yellowtail, zucchini, yellow squash and bell peppers—revved up with hot Chinese mustard. My seafood dream was far from over. I let Nanami create whatever special roll he saw fit. His recipe resulted in one of the most exquisite rolls I have ever had the pleasure of tasting: tempura shrimp and cream cheese wrapped in seaweed and rice, sprinkled with crunchy topping, then surrounded in Nanami’s special mixture of spicy yellowtail, crab meat, spicy mayonnaise, smelt eggs and green onion. If you’re craving the traditional, Nami has an extensive selection of sushi, rolls and sashimi for all sushi lovers, from the hesitant to the bold. Granted, you either love sushi or you don’t.

Even if you’re not fond of formerly-finned delicatessan, that shouldn’t stop you from dining at Nami. Meaning “wave,” Nami will flood you with options. Their non-sushi menu is packed with unique fusion fare like orange and ginger baby back ribs served with spicy roasted potato and stir-fried broccoli, sliced carrots & green beans, Kung Pao chicken with mixed vegetables and penne pasta, or try kushiyaki (skewered chicken or beef with mixed tempura).

Nami’s great food, combined with their central location in the heart of Hillcrest makes it a logical place to go for a power lunch, or after a hard day’s work. Owner Val Habbestad entices the after work crowd with specials. Mon., Tues. and Wed. from 5-7 p.m. sushi rolls and sake are half price. Thursdays from 5-9 p.m. sake is half off. Whatever time of day you choose to visit Nami, you are destined to have a memorable dining experience.

Details: Hours: Dinner: Mon. - Thurs. & Sun. 5 p.m. - 10 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. 5 p.m. - 10:45 p.m.; Lunch: Mon. -Sat. 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m., Sun. 1 p.m. - 4 p.m. Payment: American Express, MasterCard, Travelers Checks, Visa, cash Parking: On street parking is available.